Asian Images

Bumthang Valley

 

Jakar town in the Bumthang Valley. The 'Fortress of the White Bird' dating from 1549 sits on a small hill overlooking the town. Bumthang is closely associated with Guru Rinpoche and the valley is the spiritual heartland of the country.

 

Kurjey Lhakhang - a monastery comprising three temples surrounded by a wall of 108 chortens.

The 'second' and 'third' temples at Kurjey Lhakhang. In the center is the 'second' and holiest temple which is built on the site of a meditation cave containing a rock with the imprint of Guru Rinpoche.

On the left is the more recent 'third' temple built by the Queen Mother Ashi Keasng Choden Wangchuk in 1984.

Khina and Ohma - two charming and friendly sisters who looked after us with warmth and kindness at the Hotel River Lodge in Jakar.

Khina was an expert at lighting the wood burning fires in the bedrooms. This was an essential service since it was mighty chilly in Jakar. Ohma was always full of joy and grace.

We wanted to take them home!

 

The main tower inside the Jakar Dzong.

Classic Bhutanese architecture and design in a small courtyard inside Jakar Dzong. A majority of buildings are not constructed according to a formal plan but simply follow the design in the architect's head.

A door with an oversize door frame!

Kathleen fills the door and provides a good reference scale! 'Duck or grouse' was a common refrain in most historical Bhutanese buildings.

Ironically, my only contact with a low-hanging door frame came in a distinctly less historical building - the washroom at Paro airport. The wood frame to head collision resulted in much cursing, a bloody cut and a throbbing headache for the next hour! Not exactly the way I intended to depart Bhutan.

Springtime! Jakar Dzong.

 

Mini-chortens filling a sacred cave in the Bumthang valley. Each chorten is placed in the cave to commemorate a deceased family member.

A General Store on 'Main Street' Jakar.

Note the 'stable' style of entrance door with a closed base. The purpose of these split doors remains a mystery since there were no horses in town except for the two and four wheeled varieties.  

A prominent sign outside an innocent looking  building on Main Street.

The mind boggles at the nature of the dual services provided within - a pint of beer and polish my toe nails please!

Thimphu City

 

The Thimphu river valley and the sprawling southern suburbs of the capital city of Bhutan - Thimphu. The city lies at an elevation of 2,320 meters and in 2005 had a population of about 99,000. Thimphu was established as the capital of Bhutan in 1955. In addition to being the home of the King and the seat of government, the city is also the headquarters of the Je Khenpo, the supreme religious leader of Bhutan.

 

Downtown Thimphu. Key landmarks include the massive Tashichho Dzong or the 'Fortress of the Glorious Religion' in the distant center, the golden spire of the National Memorial Chorten in the foreground on the far left and the Taj Tashi Hotel - the orange-brown tower in the center of the image. Much of Thimphu was built in the last 20 years.

The Taj Tashi hotel - our home for two nights. A modern hotel that showcases Bhutanese architecture and design. The staff were exceptionally well trained and the service standard impeccable.

Looking into the National Memorial Chorten. The shrine was built in 1974 in memory of the father of modern Bhutan, the King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk - the third Druk Gyalpo who reigned from 1952 until 1972.

Young and old Bhutanese alike come to the chorten at all times of the day to perform the kora or circumambulation ritual. We completed three circuits in respect.

A special building next to the chorten used to house butter lamps. These lamps are commonly burnt in temples, monasteries, chortens and the home as offerings to gain merit. The flames of these lamps have been responsible for starting many tragic fires that have destroyed ancient buildings, priceless artwork and historical  documents. In a more safety conscious world the lamps are now ceremoniously burnt in isolation.

 

Three fine slate carvings above the main gate to the Memorial Chorten - from right to left, Guru Rinpoche, the historical Budhha and Shabdrung Ngawang Namygal, the unifier of Bhutan in the 17th century.

The Fortress of the Glorious Religion dating from 1641 but largely rebuilt in 1965. The Dzong houses the King's throne room, the government ministries, the country's largest monastery and the offices of the Buddhist monk body. To the right of the Dzong is the National Assembly. 

 

'Times Square' Thimphu!

The traffic policeman standing on the covered pedestal vigorously directed the traffic with a variety of somewhat difficult to comprehend but entertaining gestures.

Bhutan has 28,000 vehicles of which about 17,000 are registered in Thimphu. Outside of the city all roads are single lane in each direction and never straight for a distance that is much longer than about 20 meters!

 

Prayer Wheels

 

Mani dungkhor or stationary Buddhist prayer wheels. The wheel contains a rolled prayer and each rotation of the wheel effectively recites the prayer.

Long rows of stationary prayer wheels are commonly found at monasteries and temples. Custom typically requires that all the wheels should be spun rather than a few at random. The wheels are often turned as part of the kora ritual or circumambulation of a temple, monastery or chorten. This is always performed an odd number of times in a clockwise direction.

 

Large fixed prayer wheels that require significant strength to turn. Handles projecting from the base of the wheel are used to initiate the revolution of the heavy metal or wooden wheels. When a wheel reaches a critical rotation speed it often activates a small overhead bell. It also seemed permissible to run one's hand over the script on the outside of the large mani dungkhor in lieu of setting the wheel in motion. 

 

The Bhutanese lady on the left holds a mani lhakor or hand prayer wheel. A gentle rotation of the wrist spins the wheel and the attached chain. On the right the lady holds a rosary with 108 beads, a sacred number corresponding to the 108 different manifestations of the Buddha of Compassion. Both ladies were quietly chanting prayers in seemingly perfect harmony.

A chukhor mani or water driven prayer wheel.

My source book on Bhutan reports that "the water that is touched by the wheel is said to become blessed, carrying with it a purifying power into all life forms in the ocean and lakes that it feeds into".

Likewise, prayers and blessings on mountain prayer flags are carried away by the wind!

On the right is a hospital waiting room in Thimphu. The reception window is at the back on the left and the chairs for the patients are set out on either side of two large stationary prayer wheels.

Note that the prayers on the lower half of both wheels have been almost completely worn off. During my short period observing this scene I noted that most visitors ignored the waiting room chairs and continually circummabulated the prayer wheels. A good insurance policy!

 

Mani dungkhor at the delightful Khamsum Yulley Namgyei chorten in the Punakha valley - bougainvillea, colorful prayer wheels and a serene Buddha statue - an image of perfect harmony!

Punakha Valley

 

Chimi Lhakhang - a temple dedicated to Lama Drukpa Kunley, otherwise known as the 'Divine Madman'. The temple, dating from 1499, stands on a small hill in the center of the Punakha Valley and commands excellent views in all directions. Lama Kunley acquired his moniker due to his bacchanalian style of teaching Buddhism! His sexual exploits are strictly x-rated though well remembered. To this day childless couples visit the temple to pray for offspring.

 

Many of the young monks at Chimi Lhakhang appeared to be in high spirits and happily cooperated with an informal photo shoot. In all the images the monk in the center looks directly back at the camera. And he has a beguiling expression on his young face - confident, charming and mature beyond his years.

 

Khamsum Yulley Namgyel Chorten - a delightful 3-story chorten that looks down on the upper Punakhan Valley. The chorten was consecrated in 1999 and built at the behest of her majesty Queen Ashi Tshering Yandon in order to "remove negative forces and promote peace, stability and harmony in the changing world". Time will tell if humanity can fully achieve these universal values. 

Our short hike up to Khamsum Yulley Namgyal chorten was richly rewarded. The views of the valley and the surrounding snow-capped mountains are stunning, the setting of the chorten is idyllic, the atmosphere tranquil and the interior artwork depicting the teaching of the deity Dudjom Rinpoche is magnificent. We lingered long at this chorten, relaxing and simply appreciating the harmonious beauty of the location.

 

This is not tropical Bali or the Philippines. These are terraced fields in the Himalayas for growing rice and wheat. Tropical fruits, including oranges and bananas, and a wide variety of vegetables are also grown in the fertile Punakha valley. It was gloriously warm and sunny in the valley during our two visits. In the lower section of the valley the landscape is dry and somewhat reminiscent of the southern interior valleys of British Columbia, Canada. Kathleen was reminded of her home town of Trail, BC - well, except for the missing zinc smelter!

Common paintings on the exterior walls of Bhutanese houses - this example is from the village of Pana, close to the temple of the Divine Madman.

On the bottom left is a Snow Lion, one of four powerful animals known as the Tack Seng Chung Druk. These animals are considered to be highly auspicious, bringing good luck, prosperity, courage and harmony to the occupants of the dwelling. A Garuda is painted on the house at bottom right. In Buddhist iconography the garuda has the torso and arms of a man, a horned head, and the wings, legs and tail of a mighty bird of prey. The Garuda defends the house against evil spirits and counteracts the poisons and afflictions delivered by naga spirits.

The flying phallus at top right is a less than subtle reference to the legendary sexual exploits of Lama Drukpa Kunley, the Divine Madman. The phallus is politely said to ward off evil spirits and negative energies. No doubt it is also a fertility symbol and perhaps the males in the house hope to acquire just a touch of the Divine Madman's libido.

 

A Grey Langur mother and infant showing their distinctive white heads, thick grey coats and large body size. The tail of an adult can measure up to 1.2 meters. Langurs grow to a length of about one meter and can reach a weight of 15 kilograms. Alpha male langurs are known to invade other troops and kill all the infants in order to start their own progeny. Troops live as high as about 3,600 meters or 11,800 feet.

Enough monkey business for today!

Tango Goemba

Tango Goemba was our first hike in Bhutan - a short one hour climb and a 300 meter elevation gain to the monastery north of Thimphu - a mere training session compared to the later grind up to Tiger's Nest. Also, we were 'entertained' for the duration of the climb to Tango Goemba by a human convoy of monks carrying overweight rice sacks up to the monastery. Our 'suffering' was but nothing compared to the monks!

 

The monastery quartermaster records the name of each monk and the weight of his load before departure. To the right, in the background, the monks start up the long trail.

 

The 'rice highway'! Monks and ponies carry sacks weighing up to 50 kilograms or about 110 pounds - a load heavier than Kathleen! Unsurprisingly, these human beasts of burden needed to rest at frequent intervals, although the extra effort to lower and raise their heavy load at every stop clearly provided an incentive to push on as far as possible before near collapse.

Portaits in strength and endurance!

 

Four monks, having completed their work, observe the stragglers on the trail below. Note the footwear worn by most of the rice carriers - not exactly alpine hiking boots!

 

The outer curved wall of Tango Goemba. The monastery was founded in the 13th century and largely rebuilt in its present form in 1688 by Tenzin Rabgye, the 4th Temporal Ruler of Bhutan. Restored in the 1990's, the monastic school is now the residence of a young reincarnation of Tenzin Rabgye.

 

The gateway to the monastery with rows of large prayer wheels on either side. An official at the gate recorded the details of each rice bag delivered by the sherpa monks. The recognizable face in the foreground is Jigme - our handsome and capable guide!

 

Traditional Bhutanese architecture and design in the lower storey wooden windows of an exquisite three-storey inner tower.

Kathleen looking fit and ready for the descent. Many of the monks were already climbing back up to the monastery with a second rice bag as we 'skipped' down the trail!

 

A Bhutanese 'yeti' spotted in the forest near Tango Goemba.

Unfortunately, before I could announce this amazing anthropological discovery to the world, I was politely informed that the 'yeti' was in fact nothing more exotic than a Common Grey Langur - known to science as Semnopithecus entellus and to the Bhutanese as Pcha Kar.

To me, it will always be a Bhutanese 'yeti'!

Taktshang Lhakhang

Taktshang Monastery - the most venerated and holy place in Bhutan. According to legend, Guru Rinpoche flew here on the back of a tigress to subdue a local demon. With the demon successfully dispatched, he then meditated for three months in a cave where the monastery now stands. Leaving the cave Guru Rinpoche then set out to teach Buddhism throughout Bhutan.

Taktshang translates as 'Tiger's Nest'! A befitting name. The small mountain monastery is perched precariously, like a nest, on a narrow rock ledge above a bare, vertical rock face. The Paro river valley is 900 meters below. To reach this seemingly impossible location requires a grueling hike on a trail that clings precariously to the side of the mountain.

Notwithstanding the physical challenge of climbing to Taktshang, the monastery is a highly popular destination for both pilgrims and tourists alike.

 

The hike to Taktshang - the location of the trail is schematic but close to reality. The ascent can be divided into three stages - Stage 1 from the Base Camp to the Rest Stop, Stage 2 from the Rest Stop to the Look Out and Stage 3 from the Look Out to Taktshang. Stage 1 is physically the most demanding and the tea served at the Rest Stop lodge never tasted better. Stage 3 requires nerve and a good 'head for heights' since the narrow trail clings to the side of a near vertical rock face!

A local pony and handler can be hired at the Base camp to make the journey up to the Look Out less of a physical ordeal.

Kathleen sensibly took this option but then endured a different ordeal which was undoubtedly more painful than any discomfort she may have suffered if she had walked all the way.

 

Looking up at the Tiger's Nest from the Rest Stop.

Kathleen's pony was waiting for her after tea and cookies at the Rest Stop. However, unbeknownst to Kathleen the handler had not performed his 'rest stop' duties and had forgotten to tighten the saddle after finishing the Stage 1 climb. As a result of this lapse the insecure saddle rotated as Kathleen mounted the pony and she fell backwards, landing with a thud on the ground. Fortunately, her backpack absorbed much of the impact and the damage was limited to deep bruising in her lower back. Never the less it was a nasty accident!

However, not to be denied a visit to the Tiger's Nest, Kathleen quickly dusted herself off, and once it was determined there were no broken bones or worse, she defiantly remounted the pony and continued the journey to the Look Out which was the end of the line for the pony - and, thankfully, for the young handler!

It should also be added that I was 'missing in action' at the time of Kathleen's accident and unable to give her any immediate support or comfort. I'd left the Rest Stop before Kathleen and was waiting higher up the mountain. Another tourist came up to give me the bad news. By the time I reached Kathleen she was already riding the pony back up the trail. Need less to say I didn't feel much like a good husband!

 

At the Look Out. This photo was taken about 30 minutes after the pony mishap at the Rest Stop. As you can see, Kathleen could still manage a big smile.

The Look Out is at the same elevation as Tiger's Nest. Although, to reach the monastery from the Look Out the trail first descends 100 meters in a series of tight switchbacks on a steep ridge, followed by a traverse across a near vertical rock face, and then finally climbs back up 100 meters on wooden stairs loosely fastened to the rock face. It was a challenge, but we did make it to the Tiger's Nest - in just under three hours - a respectable time we thought!

To visit Tiger's Nest is an unforgettable experience. An experience well worth all the huffing and puffing on the trail and the next day's sore muscles and stiff joints. You will have to ask Kathleen if the experience was worth falling off a pony!

 

The mid-section of Stage 3. After a steep descent of the ridge in the upper left corner of the photo, the trail cuts across a rock face with a nasty drop-off to the left!

Traversing this section required as much attention to other tourists as to the drop-off itself. It was apparent that some tourists seemed rather blind to everyone else on the very narrow trail!

 

Three relaxed pilgrims meditating in a small cave beside the trail on the rock face in the photo above. The ladies believe that Guru Rinpoche also rested in this sacred cave.

My best photo image of Taktshang.

Not only an absolutely amazing location but also inspiring architecture and glorious color!

Taktshang from the Cheli La Pass - the monastery in perspective!

A tribute to Kathleen.

She earned a gold 'medal' and much respect for completing the Taktshang climb after her ordeal with the pony. Next time a pony is offered I think she might decide to take a pass and use her own two feet!

Tiger's Nest will be long remembered!

Textiles of Bhutan

 

Woven keyras illustrate the vibrant and sophisticated designs found in Bhutanese textiles.

The keyra is worn around the waist by women to secure the kira which is an ankle-length traditional dress. Textiles are considered to be the premier creative art form of Bhutan. Primary fibers include raw silk, cotton, nettle, wool and yak hair. A design may be specific to a family or a village.

A rainbow of colors.

Young ladies wearing silk or cotton kiras with traditional patterns. The taller ladies have a tego, or jacket, tied around their waists. It was a hot day! The younger ladies wear the tego correctly - over the top of the kira.

A well dressed and well coordinated Bhutanese family enjoying an open air market in Paro. The lady wears a sash called a rachu over her left shoulder. The rachu signifies rank and is worn when visiting a dzong or an official government office.

The color and design of the man's gho and the lady's kira are identical, perhaps suggesting this is a family textile.

 

Three local girls at the Paro tshechu with dynamic silk tegos. The design is more modern and the fabrics may have been imported.

A workshop in Thimphu with traditional wooden looms. On the right loom is one of Bhutan's most complex designs. Detail below.

 

Coral, turquoise and jade jewelery to adorn the traditional attire.

And right - Ram modeling a traditional yak herders outfit and hat. The fiber is of course yak hair.

We failed to guess the purpose of the thick, woven strands hanging down from the hat. Ingeniously they channel rain water off the head and away from the face. This is a critical function when the monsoon rains hit the high mountain pastures favored by the yaks in the summer.

Bhutanese Happiness

 

Happiness is a Bhutanese cultural imperative. Gross National Happiness (GNH) is as important to the development philosophy of Bhutan as GNP. And, if smiles are a measure of happiness, the country does indeed rank high in GNH! 

Bhutanese Happiness presents a small sample of the many smiling faces and happy personalities we briefly encountered during our travels through Bhutan.

A proud mother with a warm, gracious smile.

A fitting for a yak hair hat!

 

Children wearing national dress for the Paro Tshechu.

 

Pre-schoolers playing together and entertaining visitors at a small temple in Bumthang.

A schoolgirl with a subtle smile walking home in the Trongsa sunshine.

Few Bhutanese were shy of the camera. Many of the children were happy to pose for an impromptu portrait. Hopefully the impact of tourism will not diminish their demeanor.

 

A weekend banana stall operated by a well staffed enterprise on a bridge support in the Punakha Valley. Two bananas were purchased for the grand sum of 5 Ngultrum or about US 10 cents! It seemed like a fair deal to me but the raucous laughter of the children after I'd paid the bill suggested I may not have fully understood the pricing structure. In fact the quoted price of 5 Ngul was for two bunches and not two single bananas! No wonder these budding entrepreneurs were so happy!

Unfortunately, in the happy celebration of the big sale, the smallest child, second from the left in the photo, and probably only four years old, slipped off the elevated bridge support and fell two meters to the ground below. It was a very lucky escape. He only suffered from shock and a few scratches. Fortuitously, a tourist doctor was on the scene at the time and he gave the boy a full examination and the all clear. This was a great relief to me since I was responsible for the mirth that led to the boy's fall!

Three big smiles in Bumthang.

Khina and Oma are sisters - Kathleen is not related!

And last but not least - two very happy campers in Bhutan!

I hope we made a small contribution to the Bhutanese GNH during our short visit.

Dochu La Pass

 

An awe inspiring vista of the eastern Himalayas from the summit of Dochu La pass at 3,116 meters (10,223 feet). To the left is the massif peak of Masang Kang at 7,194 meters (23,604 feet), in the center is the pointed summit of Teri Kang at 7,300 meters (23,950 feet) and just visible on the right is the peak of Jejakangphu, also 7,300 meters.

 

Masang Kang from a distance of 75 kilometers. We were fortunate to see this glorious landscape on a morning blessed by sunshine and excellent visibility. It is a breathtaking view.

 

The Druk Wangyal at the summit of the Dochu La Pass - a field of 108 chortens, or stupas, built in 2004 on the initiative of Queen Ashi Dorje Wangmo as a thanksgiving for the victory of the Bhutanese army over Assamese separatists from India.

Each sacred chorten contains a relic of the Bhutanese soldiers who died during the December 2003 campaign.

 

 

The open pine forest on the hillside above Druk Wangyal is filled with a dense web of prayer flags.

 

Acclimatising at 3,116 meters or 10,223 feet!

The short stop at Dochu La Pass on a warm, sunny, spring morning is an unforgettable memory - high, snow capped mountain peaks, deep green valleys, magnolia and rhododendrons in flower, scented pine forests, a rainbow of prayer flags and clear blue skies overhead.

A moment in paradise! 

Drukpa Monk

An ordained monk or gelong at the Chimi Lhakhang temple, Punakha, Bhutan.

Punakha Dzong

 

The Punakha Dzong or 'Palace of Happiness' is a magnificent medieval fortress built in 1637 at the confluence of the Pho and Mo rivers in the warm Punakha valley. It is justifiably considered to be the most impressive and aesthetic dzong in Bhutan. In the early morning sun the fortress looks sublime. 

 

  

The first of three inner courtyards with a Bodhi (Ficus religiosa) tree presented to Bhutan by Indira Gandhi. She was the first and only female head of state permitted to stay overnight in the fortress. Until 1955, when the capital of Bhutan was moved from Punakha to Thimphu, the national government was based in the Punakha Dzong. Today, the dzong remains the winter residence of the Bhutanese central monastic order.

Traditional multi-level Bhutanese roof design with exquiste paintings on the wooden beams and elaborate window frames. The motifs in red, black and gold paint are typically floral, animal and religious designs. 

Architecture is a significant feature of Bhutanese identity. Many of the dzongs and temples are built without formal design or engineering drawings. In order to preserve Bhutanese architectural traditions and craftsmanship, the exterior of all new buildings must incorporate Bhutanese architecture by law.

  

Masterful and finely detailed murals from the exterior of the main assembly hall. On the left is a Buddhist mandala and on the right the Tshering Namdrug or the six types of long life.

Three contemplative monks leaving the Punakha Dzong on the covered wooden bridge that links the fortress to the western river bank.

Ram poses for a portrait photo in his best gho at the confluence of the Pho and Mo rivers.

The Punakha Dzong is unquestionably a Bhutanese icon. It is also a world cultural and architectural treasure.

Phobjikha Valley

 

The isolated and exquisitely beautiful Phobjikha Valley on the western slopes of the Black Mountains at an elevation of 2,900 meters or 9,500 feet. It is a gem of a glacial hanging valley that is effectively hidden from sight by the high surrounding mountains.

The floor of the Phobjikha Valley is flat, marshy, devoid of trees and covered by a carpet of dwarf bamboos and rhododendrons. From October to March the valley is home to about 300 rare black-necked cranes (Grus nigricollis) which annually migrate from the colder Tibetan plateau to the north. Unfortunately, the cranes had returned to Tibet prior to our visit. The photo image is courtesy of the Internet and an unidentified photographer.

 

The long rays of the evening sun cast shadows over the Gangtey Goenpa, a 16th century Buddhist monastery located on a ridge overlooking the valley.

 

A spring morning view looking up from the valley floor to the main prayer tower of Gangtey Goepna.

A closer view of the prayer tower or tshokhang. It is supported by eight pillars and built in the Tibetan style. Inside the tower we watched about 100 monks, ranging in age from about four to forty, receiving a breakfast of corn and soup. As we departed the sound of loud horns reverberated around the tower to signify the start of the ritual prayers.

The Dewachen Hotel - a magnificent stone and wood building with panoramic views across and down the Phobjhika Valley.

In keeping with the remote location, electricity was only available in the hotel between 6 pm and 9 pm. Accordingly, it was early to bed. The room heating was provided by individual wood burning stoves. These required a generous dousing of kerosene to ignite the damp local pine. And, since the fire burns out quickly after lights out, the hotel also provided a heavy duty down duvet for the bed. And a good thing too since it was a sub-zero night!

An early morning hike from the hotel to the Gangtey Goenpa.

The white dot in the distance behind Kathleen is the local school. Children from the most remote villages walk for up to three hours each way, six days a week, to attend school. Education is taken seriously!

The 'Three Musketeers' from the previous post. Note the blue rubber boots - essential footwear in the marshy valley. These guys were at least five kilometers from the school when we encountered them on their way to a home somewhere!

 

Our valley hike also took us into a glorious, open pine forest with a carpet of purple spring flowers. Above the forest we met a yak with an ample pair of horns!

The Phobjikha Valley was perhaps my personal 'shangri-la' in Bhutan - a perfect, mythical, hidden Himalayan valley! Perhaps not the utopian 'shangri-la' made famous in the 1933 novel  'Lost Horizon' by James Hilton, but never the less, a very special place and definitely an authentic landscape paradise of peace and beauty!

Bhutanese Portraits

Bhutanese men, women and children proudly wear traditional dress on an every day basis. The designs, colors and manufacture of the silk and brocade fabrics are a part of the rich Bhutanese cultural heritage. Traditional dress also reinforces a strong national identity.

The traditional dress for men is the gho which is a knee-length robe tied at the waist by a fabric belt known as the kera. In the photo above the man is also wearing a white scarf with fringes known as a kabney. The kabney must be worn to enter a Dzong or an official office.

Bhutanese women wear an ankle-length dress known as the kira. It is secured by a woven keyra around the waist and fastened at the shoulder with a brooch or koma. A long-sleved blouse, or wonju, is worn underneath the kira and a jacket, a tego, is worn on the outside.

An entrepreneurial young lady selling Buddhist souvenirs beside a stupa at the summit of the Yolang Pass. Customers at 3,400 meters were few and far between but this didn't seem to dampen her high spirits.

Jigme - our handsome guide from Keys To Bhutan and aspiring rock musician. He plays in a band called 'D12' which is recording its first album in Sikkim, India later this year - stay tuned for the first mega-band from Bhutan. Jigme also speaks three languages and is studying another two!

And sorry ladies - he's spoken for!

 

A young monk with the latest in 'Crocs' footwear.

 

The 'Three Musketeers' - playful schoolboys on their way home in the Phobjikha Valley. We were greeted with a loud chorus of 'Good evening, sir'! Old fashioned formality alive and well in the Phobjikha Valley.

An angel's face at the Paro Tshechu.

A Buddhist monk contacts the secular world.

Cheli La Pass

 

The physical character of Bhutan is dominated by high elevation, east-west mountain ranges that are sliced open by deep, precipitous north-south valleys that disgorge into the Brahmaputra valley in India. Travel between valleys is typically undertaken on narrow switchback roads that defy gravity and quickly invite vertigo. The passes between the valleys often afford stupendous views.

Cheli La Pass at 3,810 meters, or 12,500 feet, is the highest pass in Bhutan that's navigable by every day traffic. It is a spectacular location that impresses the senses - glorious mountain panoramas in all directions, snow capped peaks of the Himalayas to the north, including the Everest range, prayer flags rustling in the wind, grazing yaks, soaring eagles, sweet, dry air and wonderful tranquility.

Jhomolhari - 7,314 meters or 23,996 feet - viewed from a distance of over 50 kilometers.

Good fortune permitted this perfect view of a perfect mountain! The blue sky 'window' was open for just a few minutes - time enough to appreciate the mountain's majesty and fulfill one of my top Bhutan travel wishes!

My personal 'Everest' - a small cairn above Cheli La Pass at an elevation of 4,350 meters or 14,272 feet! The 'hill' had no name so it was unilaterally designated D2!

In the pantheon of world mountain peaks, D2 is not so shabby - Mount Rainier in Washington State is 4,392 meters and Mont Blanc on the French-Italian border is 4,808 meters!

Celebrating the 'bagging' of D2 - the jump must have taken me well over 4,350 meters!

The final assault of D2 was a solo effort without supporting oxygen! Jigme was my Sherpa escort whilst Kathleen remained at the 4,000 meter base camp with Ram. The photo records the team arrival at 4,000 meters!

Lungdhar or 'wind horse prayer flags' above Cheli La Pass. 

These flags are commonly found at high elevations and are believed to carry the blessings depicted on the flags to all beings.

A chic model at 4,000 meters!

And well dressed for the Himalayan air and high-UV sunshine!

 

Looking down 1,200 meters, or 4,000 feet, into the Haa valley from Cheli La Pass. The three small hills above the valley floor represent the three deities that protect Haa - Chenresig, Channa Dorje and Lhakang. An Indian army camp in the town also provides secular protection!

A picnic lunch below the summit of the Cheli La Pass - the menu included the Bhutanese national dish - redhot chili peppers in melted cheese!

At this remote location and high elevation I declined the opportunity to test my intestinal fortitude!

A bull yak encounter at the Pass!

A beast to be treated with great respect and a photo opportunity from the safety of the vehicle. The escape routes for a disgruntled yak, or a threatened photographer, are limited on a narrow road with a mountain on one side and a 1,000 meter drop to Haa on the other side!

Cheli La Pass - an exhilarating visit.

Paro Tshechu

 

The Paro Dzong and castle watch tower with Chatarake (6,500 m) ridge on the horizon.

One of the many highlights of our 10 days in Bhutan was a morning visit to the annual Paro Tshechu. This is a five-day Buddhist festival in honor of Guru Rinpoche and features ritual dances, music and entertainment. Most Bhutanese attend the festival in national costume and wear their finest jewelery. The atmosphere is joyful, informal and social. The pageant is a kaleidoscope of color and movement.

The tshechu is held in the sunny courtyard of the Paro Dzong. Spectators sit shoulder to shoulder on the ground or on simple earthen terraces. Musicians play traditional horns, trumpets and drums from the balcony.

 

Monks blow Bhutanese long and short horns from the roof-top. The horn blower to the left is considerably shorter than his horn!

Black hat dancers expel evil spirits with supernatural power. The dancers are commonly monks.

The spectacular dance costumes are made of silk or brocade and are typically decorated with ornaments. Hats and masks represent animals, deities and manifestations of Guru Rinpoche.

A few photo images follow that sample the color, range and energy of the Paro Tshechu.

 

 

 

Two proud and happy Bhutanese children watch the entertainment. No doubt the event is also a wonderful opportunity for learning more about Buddhism and their country's culture.

Two familiar faces in the tshechu crowd!

Jigme and Kathleen.

Bhutan - Land of the Thunder Dragon

 

The Kingdom of Bhutan - a photo essay to introduce a remarkable nation. The architectural icon above is the Punakha Dzong - a seventeenth century castle built to defend against invading armies from Tibet.

Bhutan is a small, landlocked Himalayan country largely unknown to the wider world. It is located between the high Himalayas of Tibet to the north and the tropical valley of the Brahmaputra river in India to the south. Bhutan's borders span an east-west distance of about 300 kilometers and 150 kilometers north to south. Scattered across this isolated high elevation land mass is a tiny population of just 658,000 souls.

 

Zangphu Kang (Table Mountain) in the eastern Himalayas looking towards Tibet. This awe inspiring panorama with spring magnolia was visible from the crest of Dochu La pass at 3,116 meters. On the far horizon the high mountain peaks reach a height of 7,300 meters.

 

Our memorable ten-day exploration of Bhutan was organized by Keys To Bhutan. This is a first class, professional tour company based in Thimphu, the nation's capital. More on Keys To Bhutan later. In the photo above Ram stands by his 'baby' - a comfortable and spacious Toyota, otherwise known as the 'Japanese guesthouse'! Ram was an excellent driver, an aspiring linguist and a warm hearted fellow.

 

Jhomolhari (7,314 m) viewed from Cheli La pass at an elevationof 3,800 meters - to the right is the lower peak of Jichu Drake (6,794 m). Jhomolhari is sacred to the Bhutanese and has never been officially climbed.

 

Taktshang Lhakhang or 'Tiger's Nest' temple at 2,950 meters - a venerated pilgrimage site for both Himalayan Buddhists and tourists alike. The temple is built precariously on a near vertical rock face above a 900 meter drop-off to the valley below. A future post will tell the harrowing tale of the climb to Taktshang.

 

Bhutan is steeped in Vajrayana Buddhism. Monasteries, temples, stupas and prayer flags are found on every mountain and in every valley. The influence of Buddhism is highly visible and it permeates every aspect of daily life. Young boys can enter the monastery to start the life of a monk as early as their third birthday.

An Astera or 'jester' at the five-day Paro Tshechu - an ancient religious festival in honor of Guru Rinpoche who introduced Buddhism to Bhutan. It is a dazzling spectacle of dance, music and entertainment for everyone - young and old.

A Takin (Budocras taxicolor) - the national animal of Bhutan. According to myth, this rather strange beast was created by fixing the head of a goat to the body of a cow. Adult males can weigh up to a tonne.

 

The Bhutan 'travel team' - from left to right, Ram, our driver, Kathleen, and Jigme, our highly accomplished and always informative guide. Jigme and Ram provided a perfect introduction to the magnificent landscape, the intrinsically friendly people, the complex national history and mythology, Buddhism and the many mysteries of the Land of the Thunder Dragon.

Today's post is a taste of the visual splendour and diversity of Bhutan. The accounts of our adventures with Ram and Jigme will follow in future posts.

Colors of Koh Samui

To quickly explore Koh Samui we hired a local car and driver and circumnavigated the small island on the narrow coastal highway. Stops were made at numerous Buddhist temples, stupas, viewpoints, tourist attractions and last but not least, a delightful family restaurant overlooking the ocean. Here are a few classical Thai images of a colorful day.

Wat  Khunaram - home to a mummified monk wearing Ray Ban sunglasses!

Wat Phra Yai - otherwise known as, unsurprisingly, the Big Buddha Temple. Scale is missing in the photo but the Buddha is about 20 meters tall.

   

The Ha Tin or Grandfather rock. No prizes for guessing the symbolism. There is also a Grandmother rock! The rocks are an important fertility symbol in Koh Samui and much frequented by couples hoping to procreate - and maybe by others with different ambitions!

Wat Plai Laem.

A very happy Buddha!

A splendid new roof at Wat Plai Laem.

 

The main temple at Wat Plai Laem - an absolutely classic example of Thai Buddhist architectural style and color.

The construction cost of USD 20 million is reported to have been financed largely by offerings from visitors.

The Buddhist monk who started the Plai Laem temple.

Laem Sor Chedi stupa on the southern tip of Koh Samui. Like many other stupas and Wats on the island, this one also looked as if it had been constructed only yesterday. Unfortunatelyy, the stupa's artistic quality may have been somewhat sacrificed for speed of completion and quantity.

 

 

 

An unknown female deity welcomes visitors to the Big Buddha site. This deity probably wouldn't win any beauty competitions!

A rather curious giant size statue of a Buddhist monk riding a dragon-like mythical beast - although the beast does look more like a prancing horse with a mermaid's tail. Perhaps the mermaid in the background is also part of the allegory.

I confess my ignorance of Thai Buddhist mythology.

One final image of Koh Samui - it's a sun and sand island!

Elephants and Predators

 

Koh Samui has all the attractions that you'd expect for a high profile beach and hang-out destination - including the always popular elephant 'safaris'. We declined the safari but Kathleen's compassion for animals did compel her to provide the baby elephant with a fulsome snack of healthy bananas and corn. And everyone benefited - the local farmer who sells the food, the ever hungry elephant and of course Kathleen, who was delighted to give a small treat to the little pachyderm.

Nice tusks!

On the streets of Koh Samui it was 'Predator' versus 'Aliens'!

 

The Predator and Alien assembly line - a small workshop where auto and motorcycle parts of all description are welded and hammered together by hooded craftsmen to create the monsters. And the sticker prices will give you a shock! Cheaper to buy the original motorcycle!

The enterprise was started by a poor farmer who scavenged for spare parts and had both the entrepreneurial spirit and the talent to build the business. Predators, aliens and a multitude of other movie monsters are now exported around the world.

Kudos to the farmer but Predators in the living room are not my 'cup of tea'!

Koh Samui

 

Blue skies, white sand, coconut palms and heat - the location is the small island of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand - a mere 90 air minutes from Singapore. It was a perfect environment for a short rendezvous with close friends from Toronto who made a beach detour on their long journey home following a family vacation in Bhutan. Our three days together passed by all too quickly.

The 'official' team photo as a memory of a wonderful day spent cruising the waters of Koh Ang Thon in the National Marine Park. A chartered power boat transported us at high speed to the park in about an hour. The day was spent swimming, snorkeling and exploring the islands.

The team photo was snapped after a leisurely lunch on our own 'private' beach - chicken, rice, mangoes plus an adequate supply of chilled sparkling Italian wine masquerading as 'champagne'!

   

The 'team' up close from right to left - Eric, Brian and Connor - the three sons of Jim and Mary - Jim, Mary, Laurie - Mary's sister - Kathleen and me. And a finer crowd would be hard to find!

 

Our home for a few days in the Coral Bay Resort.

   

Kathleen in the garden of the Coral Bay Resort shortly before we departed this afternoon.

This short post is courtesy of a rather poor wireless internet connection at the airport hotel in Bangkok. On Monday we fly north to Bhutan to follow in the vacation footsteps of Jim and Mary. Since broadband is not expected to be universally available in the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan, posting may be light until we return once more to lower elevations!

Tomorrow we have one day to explore the bazaars of Bangkok!

Java Gallery

After the Anak Krakatau adventure we stopped briefly in Bogor and Jakarta to visit friends, do a little tourism and to shop. After the adrenalin rush of standing on an active volcano, the follow-up activities in Java were, lets say, something of an anticlimax. Although Kathleen might disagree that shopping was an anticlimax after enduring five hours in a small boat in the Sunda Strait.

An odd ball gallery of photo images from Java.

Kathleen for scale and the 'Big Bamboo' in the Bogor Botanical Gardens.

 

Javanese 'matchstick' men!

The Indonesian Presidential Palace in Bogor - built by the Imperial Dutch for the Governor of 'Java and Its Dependencies'.

A rabbit entertainer at the Mini-Indonesia Park in Jakarta. The cultural message eluded me although I did have enormous respect for the individual inside the costume since the air temperature was about 34 degrees Celsius!

Baked rabbit - mmmm!

 

Fishing boats at Carita - our fiber glass vessel was less colorful but probably more seaworthy!

 

A traditional Sulawesi style house built at Mini-Indonesia, Jakarta. Buffalo horns displayed in front of the dwelling are a measure of the family's wealth and importance in the village.

The owner of this house must have been a derivatives trader for AIG or Merrill Lynch judging by the impressive number of horns on display!

 

A traditional Javanse parade to celebrate the male circumcision ritual. The focus of the event appeared to be two less than happy young girls, each riding a rather cute lion. The mystery as to why a circumcision parade would feature young girls rather than young boys was never solved!

Maybe the boys had figured it was time to head for the hills!